Construct the final lft bed

latest update August 11, 2013.C.I.G. is partly supported by its readers. If you’re buying our connections, we can make a partnership commission …

In May, I delivered a cool little tutorial.

While it was a fairly simple project, the result was rather cool-all the floor space that could be taken at the table of legs is released, giving me more space to store things or stretch my legs …

Unfortunately, I went back to school, and the standard table that comes with my room cannot be removed. So I had to find other ways to free space for the floor. We need to make room for the couch, right?When I moved a few weeks ago, I entered my new studio room (yes, RA’s get singles-be diny) and noticed one thing-

Seriously, this is a 14 × 7 room less than half my previous room. In fact, I think it’s one of the smallest rooms on campus …

Look for recommendations, I called the previous RA and asked him if he had any idea how to place the couch in the room. He laughed and told me to take the binoculus …

Well, my bags are very unacceptable for the only reason they’re not a couch. So I had to look for my solution …

As you can see, this bed is actually hanging from a large frame, not supported by four legs just below it ..

Ever since I’ve been living in a dorm dorm, I couldn’t screw up a wall or a ceiling, it was supposed to be freer. The idea was based on the bed, was to create a design in which the bed is as close to the walls as possible. The concept is the same as the hanging table-keep the outer space open …

Ever since the bed is just a little out of the wall, almost the entire floor has become open to my interior interior designer. First step? Diwan, of course!However, this is not the only cool feature that I created in this thing. When you have a large frame in your room, your creative possibilities are expanding; I looked at mine and decided to add a … pulp-bar!

Another cool thing I’ve been allowed to do.

Time to spill your inner inner Tim Taylor …

Okay, then the first thing you need to do is take it.The height of your room, floor to ceiling. You’ll want to make your posts 1-2 inches shorter to make sure you’re good …

  • Distance to the room.
  • The length and width of the mattress included in your number. Of course, you always have the opportunity to make your bed more than a mattress, but for this tutorial we will use the exact dimensions of the bed …
  • You may also want to make measurements of the length and width of the entire room so that you can plan the layout of things that will go on the floor as soon as this bed is turned off …

    We pay close attention to things in the room that can affect the bed. This is a frame that goes around a good part of the room and hugs the walls, so pay attention to where it will be …

    There’s a cabinet in my room with a door that’s spinning, and a bookshelf built into the wall. I had to design the bed so none of them would be blocked.The actual frames and posts are not the only thing to consider-you will need the diagonal boards of “kicker” to ensure stability on the side without a bed (if you build it in one)-make sure they do not block anything good ..

    Now, now that you know your room like the back hands and you get your measurements, it’s time to nail the design …

    As I mentioned earlier, I recruited my grandfather and his 40 years of carpentry/construction experience-it may be good for you to ask someone with similar experience to help, if you can …

    If you don’t have access to someone like this, you’ll have to use your brain as a placeholder. I’m trying to present very detailed instructions and visibility here, but projects like this rarely stick to the script …

    Exit the paper and exit the design. Obviously, you’d want four posts to stay in bed and four long boards to make a frame. However, you can deviate from the design to your life …

    For example, you can change the actual part of the construction, depending on what your room is already in. In my design, I had to build the actual rectangle from across the beam in the middle to maintain the bed. This is because in my new bedroom the bed is lying on a piece of plywood which is held by the loft. I had to create a design that would support this board as …

    If your dorm is on a metal frame, it’ll be easier for you than me. Because the metal frame will be flexible.

    Here are some other things that you can consider when designing a bed:.

  • How do I build posts? I decided to use 2 × 6 and 2 × 4 to build an “L” for each position. However, you can just as easily use one 4 × 4 for each post and get rid of the unpleasant if you stay in two boards. My reasons for making “L” the bars were 1) to make less tree-tree to drill holes and 2) to give each post a little more space for the base ..
  • How do I prevent construction on sides that are not supported by walls? I used diagonal “kirk” boards that swam around the bars and the beds that prevent the beds from sleeping. However, if you do not have access to the saw, it will be difficult for you to cut the angle of 45 ° to do so. If you have empty walls (i.e. walls with no wardrobes or bookshelves in them) can simply attach a board of equal length to the side of the frame near the bottom of the posts ..
  • Do you want to add some cool extracts into the bed? Sewing a wooden frame around the room.
  • Did your design come up? Okay, now’s the time to make a grocery list …

    It’s time to spend as if it were Brewster’s millions.

    When I built things in the past, I did the same thing as an artist, and I just built the way I did and I didn’ t do it well. This practice has spread to my trading habits-I would like to waltz in the House of Depot and buy what I thought was good …

    Much has changed for this project. Since I was going to sleep on this thing, I wanted to make sure.

    So my advice is to create a shopping list before you start buying things. Here’s a list of what I bought …

    Mind you, my room is a little bit more than eight feet in – your room can be bigger, so you might need to buy more than 2 × 6 for the front and the back of the frame …

  • 6 10-foot 2 × 6 (risers and long frame).
  • 5 8-foot 2 × 6 (bed-side frame and actual bed, Kicks).
  • Four 10-foot 2 × 4 (risers).
  • Three 8-foot 2x4s ‘ (tree to hang up the bed, the middle bracket of the bed, the extra wood you might need).
  • 3.5 “-long coach bolts x 30 (may be a few extra, but it is better than having less than it is necessary).
  • The washing, the locks, the nuts (all the same diameter as the bolts) is x 30 of each.
  • Box 3 “ long wooden screws.
  • One pipe from the hot melt adhesive and glue gun (~ $5 together).
  • In general, these materials cost me about $100. I used pine, which is cheap, so take it into account if you want to use a more expensive type of tree ..

    I also bought some extras as a steel pipe for a pulvered bar, but I do not include it in the total price, as it is optional …

    While you are shopping, it would be good to see that you have access to the following tools:.

  • Drilling details for drill holes.
  • Detach bits for driving in screws (keep extra close. It’s usually shit on you when you need them the most.Some saws power (the circular saw works better).
  • Sawhorses or something else that can lift the wood from the floor/day/total.
  • I hope you have a great dad/grandfather, who has a lot of things and who is willing to let you use it …

    Now that you have your own list in your hand, it’s time to go to Home Depot.

    Time to enter TRY in CARPENTRY ..

    Now that you’ve got your bed, you have all the materials, and you’re setting up in a good working area, it’s time to step up and build …

    In my experience, it takes three hours to build it (with two people). After it is built and you know it works, you will unbuild it, and then return it to your room again …

    Ever since you’ve been working for a while, why don’t you get on with my ass.The first thing you want to do is build the posts that will hold this monolithic structure. That’s where your 10 ‘ 2 × 6 and 2 × 4 come at

    Choose because of your sugary, or whatever it is that you hold in your hands, and use your tape triangle and the carpenter triangle to mark the board where you want to cut-it should be 1-2 “ less than the height of your room. Cut four 2 × 6 and four 2 × 4 to this length ..

    Next, you will build posts one at a time …

    To make one, put a 2 × 6 flat on the 2 × 6 sachet, and then lay out 2 × 4 on its side 2 × 6. This should create the “L” form when looking at the whiteboard at any end …

    Make sure the edges of the shields are flush, and then take your hot glue gun and put a straight line of glue on the 2 × 6 ..

    Position 2 × 4 on the top of the adhesive and clamp the two boards with the wooden clamping so that the glue can lock into a strong …

    Wire some of the screws on the length of the shields so that they cannot separate. You will then be finished with the positions that look like this:.

    The next step in the build process will be the merging of two posts on the side of the bed. You must first cut 2 × 6 to the length of the bed, and then attach each end to the top of the post. Then you’ll be crouching every side with the ankles.To start this process, grab one of the eight-foot 2 × 6 that you bought. In fact, if you want to be effective, take four of them. You will need two for the frame and two for the actual bed, and since they are all the same length, it makes sense to cut them all right now ..

    Cut off every board to the length of the plywood that your bed is siphon. Make sure it is the same length, otherwise the plywood will not reach one of the ends, and your bed will not be as safe …

    Now that your boards are cut off, put them on three. Let’ s take the one you use for this side of the frame and prepare it for the first position ..

    Before you begin, four mop (or analogue of the sugary) is available, so you can keep the whole thing off the ground and correct the holes …

    After you install the set, create the right corner with the system board and one of the adheets. Carcas will walk on the inner side of the “L” bed, and it should rest on 2 × 4 side of the post, not side 2 × 6 ..

    You don’t want it to be on the side 2 × 6, because then the other framework would only come to “L” about 2. “ At the same time, each frame will attach at least 3.5 “, which is much safer …

    We will build two boards and secure them with a wooden clamp (this is the moment you will truly appreciate the wooden clamps) ..

    Now use the drill-down, equal to the thickness of your bolts, to drill two holes through the boards. Ensure that the holes are at least a couple of inches from the vertical edge of the “L” form, otherwise they block the area that should be reserved for the other …

    After you drill holes, put it in the bolts …

    Add a flat, dry and walnut and tighten it all ..

    Now, simply repeat this process on the other side of the framework with the second post. When you’re done, you’ll have a rectangle with no lower side …

    Now, before you build the actual bed!

    Now, now is the time to build the “bed” part-by this I mean that we’re going to build the part that plywood, mattress and you (.

    To start this process, capture one of the 2 × 6 planks that you carved earlier. This will be attached to the part of the frame you just built in the previous step, about three feet below the other board. Attach it in the same way-use a wooden clip to save it where you want to, and drill holes in a pair of inches from the vertical “L” ..

    Now you’re going to want to take the last eight feet 2 × 6 that you bought. This will be used for the front and back of the bed, so you’ll want to shorten them to the width of the plywood. Attach each to a column with a bed in the vertical “L”. When you’re done, you’ll have the following:

    As soon as you have it, just fill in the bedding field by taking another 2 × 6 bed and chanting it to the front and back. I’m using three screws for each side to be safe …

    So, let’ s take one of your 2 × 4 and cut the section to fit in the middle of the bed. Put it where you want it, and screw it. To save time at a disassembly, just put it on one side ..

    Now you’ll have something like this:

    At this point, you just got a full part of the structure. However, you still need to add diagonal boards that will maintain the weight of the actual bed, plus you. These diagonal planks are attached to the front and rear carjams, so we need to add them first ..

    As I said, my room is not much longer than 8 feet, so the 10-foot 2 × 6 is the work for the front and back panels. If your room is bigger than mine-which may be (sigh)-then you’ll have to buy more than 2 × 6 boards. This is one of the reasons why it is important to measure your room ..

    After you get the width of the room, start measuring 2 × 6 for cutting.

    Because these shields are attached to the inside of the posts, and they will stand up against the side board, which is already attached, will be three inches on each side that you need to remove ..

    Once the boards are cut, they shall be placed vertically on the part of the post to which they will be attached, clamp, drill holes and obtain these bolts at …

    Now, you need to attach diagonal boards that will keep the weight of the bed and you. Take 2 × 4 and hold it to the bed, putting one end at the top of the bed and the other on the edge of the bed. And draw and draw lines on the boards so you can cut them in the right corner to be flushing with everything. Cutting the board and cutting corners with the help of the table, if you have …

    In any case, I would recommend the drilling holes for the bolts at each end of each board, and I would also unscrew them when everything was said and done. These two boards will keep almost all the weight, and call me a paranoid psychopath, but killing just seems better than dying …

    Once you have support tips, move the entire structure up so that it is in place when you are ready to attach the other side of the frame ..

    It’s over now. All you have to do to finish the construction is to build the other side of the frame, and then slap the kid on what you already have …

    Start with the last 2 × 6 length and attach two beds to the final, just like on the other side. The only thing that’s going on here is that after you’re done, you need to add shields to support …

    As this side of the bed does not have, well, “bed”, attached to the middle, it is not important to be swallowed up. The Kicker shields are solving this problem …

    Let’ s take a couple of 2 × 6-boards left from other cuts to make the quivers. If you have a table saw, it should be really easy: just install the saw to cut an angle of 45 ° and skip each side of the board through …

    If you don’t have a saw, you can do it with a saw or a circular saw-it’s going to be harder. Don’t cut your fingers …

    Once your kirkers are cut off, just give it a hell of a crate on both the sticks and the scaffold. You must have something like this:

    Now, turn it upside down and secure it. Congratulations, you now have a fully built hanging loft!

    You don’t reach that grape soda, though you’re going to throw that thing in your room anyway. It will require you …

    Now I know what you’re thinking …” The cleaning shall be easy! All I need is to get all the bolts out, and I’ll set it up! “Slow down, fast painting McGraw … you forget one critical thing.

    No matter how well you’ve been with your rigs and other such construction activities, it’s inevitable that not everyone is in bed. The holes will have several different positions for each of the four angles, wood may be embroiched at certain points, etc.

    The thing is, if you mix your pieces during assembly, you can’t get that bed back together when it’s really important. So grab a pencil and put on the bed until you’re sure you can get it back, just as it is now …

    As soon as everything is marked,

    Reforming the bed in your room is a fairly straightforward process. However, you can still paint and bite you in the ass if you’re not ready. With this in mind, there are several assembly tips from my own experience:.

  • Bring more tools than you think. You won’t need everything you’ve used to create a bed, but you still have to be ready. If you need to make small cuts, a hammer for the snitch/removal of the bolts and the duct tape for … something is really …
  • Of course you are.
  • You’ll get some extra bits of the screwdriver for the drilling …
  • Bring an extra battery for the drilling …
  • Bring a bra to help you build a loft …
  • Bring a step, if all your furniture is on wheels, like mine. Standing on the table while trying to build the loft is not safe and fun.
  • Don’t forget to put the lock on this time. They come after the flat desert, but before the nut …
  • Thank you for helping you build that loft. Make them cookies or something …
  • Now you must have a fully assembled bed of epic proportions …

    Now it’s time to set up the tack on the puldon, the lighting (maybe.

    This is my bed! The question now is …

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